Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Day 15: Mytilene
Castle
Museum
Jim's first good beer! Craft, a microbrew.
Teresa's knees see the light of day!
Museum
Jim's first good beer! Craft, a microbrew.
Teresa's knees see the light of day!
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Day 14: Acropolis of Pergamum; ferry to Lesvos
The acropolis at Pergamum looks like something generated from the Improbability Machine (or whatever) from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. It teeters on top of a precipice, the amphitheater nestled into the bowl of the hillside, the temple of Trajan projecting into the air on massive foundation walls. As Asterix might say, those Roman engineers are crazy!
We took the taxi to the top, and walked back down. Halfway down the hill is the Middle City, where presumably hoi polloi lived. We stumble across "Building Z", which shelters three spectacular floor mosaics in amazing condition. We followed the blue dots back into town, had breakfast, and set off for our journey to Greece.
The municipal bus takes us to Yeni Garaj, the shiny new bus station outside of town, and we board a motocoach to Ayvalik, or "Quince Orchard", a seaside town known for its olive-oil. Then it's off by ferry to Mytilene on the island of Lesbos. A 90 minute cruise just at sunset takes us into the "amphitheatrically-shaped" harbor. We walked around with our backpacks looking for a "Rent Room", then a guy on a scooter spots us and takes us to one. Arion rent-rooms has murals from Greek mythology, and we are in the "Prixos and Ellie" room.
We took the taxi to the top, and walked back down. Halfway down the hill is the Middle City, where presumably hoi polloi lived. We stumble across "Building Z", which shelters three spectacular floor mosaics in amazing condition. We followed the blue dots back into town, had breakfast, and set off for our journey to Greece.
The municipal bus takes us to Yeni Garaj, the shiny new bus station outside of town, and we board a motocoach to Ayvalik, or "Quince Orchard", a seaside town known for its olive-oil. Then it's off by ferry to Mytilene on the island of Lesbos. A 90 minute cruise just at sunset takes us into the "amphitheatrically-shaped" harbor. We walked around with our backpacks looking for a "Rent Room", then a guy on a scooter spots us and takes us to one. Arion rent-rooms has murals from Greek mythology, and we are in the "Prixos and Ellie" room.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Day 13: the Battle of Bergama
Pazar 25 Mayıs 2008
Jim is laid low by gastrointestinal distress today. It being Sunday, all the eczanes (drugstores) are closed except one. I find it and get the appropriate drug for Jim. It might also have helped that we visited the Asclepion this morning. This is the site of an ancient medical complex where Galen, the 'father of medicine' practised in his day.
With Jim flat on his back, I read about the Greek (Ionian and Aeolian) settlement of Mysia, Lydia, and Caria, and the role of Asia Minor in the history of the Roman Empire, especially in the Civil Wars. Julius Caesar, Octavian, Lucullus, Pompey, Marc Antony all came through on tour.
We did not make it to the Acropolis and the site of the temple of Zeus today, so it will have to be tomorrow morning. The good stuff is all in the Berlin Museum, but we will get a sense of the setting.
The Gobi Pension ıs popular wıth Canadians for some reason.
Off to Ayvalık or Dikili tomorrow and from there a ferry to Mytılene (Lesvos). Between the uncertainty of Greek-Turkish relations and the vagaries of free enterprise, it is hard to pin down the sailing schedule of the ferries.
Jim is laid low by gastrointestinal distress today. It being Sunday, all the eczanes (drugstores) are closed except one. I find it and get the appropriate drug for Jim. It might also have helped that we visited the Asclepion this morning. This is the site of an ancient medical complex where Galen, the 'father of medicine' practised in his day.
With Jim flat on his back, I read about the Greek (Ionian and Aeolian) settlement of Mysia, Lydia, and Caria, and the role of Asia Minor in the history of the Roman Empire, especially in the Civil Wars. Julius Caesar, Octavian, Lucullus, Pompey, Marc Antony all came through on tour.
We did not make it to the Acropolis and the site of the temple of Zeus today, so it will have to be tomorrow morning. The good stuff is all in the Berlin Museum, but we will get a sense of the setting.
The Gobi Pension ıs popular wıth Canadians for some reason.
Off to Ayvalık or Dikili tomorrow and from there a ferry to Mytılene (Lesvos). Between the uncertainty of Greek-Turkish relations and the vagaries of free enterprise, it is hard to pin down the sailing schedule of the ferries.
Saturday, May 24, 2008
Day 12: Pergamum!
Cumartesi 13 Mayıs
The bus system in Turkey is admirably efficient. There are many competing bus lines, and no published bus schedules. The bus lines connect many cities point-to-point and the trips are frequent and inexpensive. It's a free-for-all-enterprise that would make the editors of "The Economist" very proud indeed.
We travel by bus to Bergama, modern Pergamum. Pergamum, like Ephesus, was a Roman provincial capital. It was also caught up in the Persian wars. All the places that were just words on the page for me while reading Thucydides' Peloponnesian Wars are coming alive.
We spend the afternoon in the cool shelter of the Archeological museum, and save the Asclepion and Acropolis for tomorrow morning. We are stayin ga tthe Gobi Pension (http://www.gobipension.com), "Quite a very good family pension" in town.
The bus system in Turkey is admirably efficient. There are many competing bus lines, and no published bus schedules. The bus lines connect many cities point-to-point and the trips are frequent and inexpensive. It's a free-for-all-enterprise that would make the editors of "The Economist" very proud indeed.
We travel by bus to Bergama, modern Pergamum. Pergamum, like Ephesus, was a Roman provincial capital. It was also caught up in the Persian wars. All the places that were just words on the page for me while reading Thucydides' Peloponnesian Wars are coming alive.
We spend the afternoon in the cool shelter of the Archeological museum, and save the Asclepion and Acropolis for tomorrow morning. We are stayin ga tthe Gobi Pension (http://www.gobipension.com), "Quite a very good family pension" in town.
Day 11: Ephesus!
Cumar 23 Mayıs 2008
We take the bus down to Selçuk, and transfer by dolmuş to Efes, the site of ancient Ephesus. It is one of the best preserved classical cities today. For Jim to see this as his first classical ruin is like someone seeing the Vatican as their first church, or for that matter, the Blue Mosque as their first mosque (which was the case for Jim). It's a sprawling hillside city with two amphitheaters, the library of Celsus, several temples, and an agora.
The harbor of Ephesus, unlike Izmir, silted up with time.
We had lunch in Selçuk and played backgammon (tavla). Then it was back to Izmir. The disco was quiet tonight, possibly because it was Friday, the Islamic holy day.
We take the bus down to Selçuk, and transfer by dolmuş to Efes, the site of ancient Ephesus. It is one of the best preserved classical cities today. For Jim to see this as his first classical ruin is like someone seeing the Vatican as their first church, or for that matter, the Blue Mosque as their first mosque (which was the case for Jim). It's a sprawling hillside city with two amphitheaters, the library of Celsus, several temples, and an agora.
The harbor of Ephesus, unlike Izmir, silted up with time.
We had lunch in Selçuk and played backgammon (tavla). Then it was back to Izmir. The disco was quiet tonight, possibly because it was Friday, the Islamic holy day.
Day 10: Istanbul to Izmir by feribot-tren
Perşembe 22 Mayıs 2008
We get up with the sun and walk down to the Cankuratan train station for two hops to the Yenikapı ferry terminal. The fast ferry goes from Yenikapı to Bandırma, halfway down the Sea of Marmara. It is brand-spanking-new and the most luxurious ferry I've been on. The train from is Bandırma to Izmir is not too shabby either. It stops short of the downtown terminus due to construction, and we are transferred thither by bus.
Izmir is the ancient city of Smyrna, famous for its strategic harbor and canny merchants. Of the many classical city-states along the coast of Asia Minor, it is one the few that continues to flourish. This was because its geography allowed the river to be diverted thereby saving the harbor from silting up. Today it is home to some 3 million people, enough to support a local Ikea store. The people of Izmir appear friendly and industrious. Just before sunset, we walk along the Cordon next to the bay, where there are many people relaxing with friends, dogs, cigarettes, beers, backgammon, and combinations thereof.
Turkey is a nation of smokers! Women, men, young, old - they all light up at the slighest provocation. Smoking was banned in public indoor spaces starting 19 May 2008.
We find a dive hotel (the Yeteroğlu) near the train station (at which we arrived by shuttle bus) and hunker down. At night, the disco next door comes alive.
We get up with the sun and walk down to the Cankuratan train station for two hops to the Yenikapı ferry terminal. The fast ferry goes from Yenikapı to Bandırma, halfway down the Sea of Marmara. It is brand-spanking-new and the most luxurious ferry I've been on. The train from is Bandırma to Izmir is not too shabby either. It stops short of the downtown terminus due to construction, and we are transferred thither by bus.
Izmir is the ancient city of Smyrna, famous for its strategic harbor and canny merchants. Of the many classical city-states along the coast of Asia Minor, it is one the few that continues to flourish. This was because its geography allowed the river to be diverted thereby saving the harbor from silting up. Today it is home to some 3 million people, enough to support a local Ikea store. The people of Izmir appear friendly and industrious. Just before sunset, we walk along the Cordon next to the bay, where there are many people relaxing with friends, dogs, cigarettes, beers, backgammon, and combinations thereof.
Turkey is a nation of smokers! Women, men, young, old - they all light up at the slighest provocation. Smoking was banned in public indoor spaces starting 19 May 2008.
We find a dive hotel (the Yeteroğlu) near the train station (at which we arrived by shuttle bus) and hunker down. At night, the disco next door comes alive.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Day 9: Museum Day (sort of)
Wednesday, 21 May
The morning was spent at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, housed in the Ibrahim Pasha Palace. The palace is arranged around a tranquil courtyard with mature trees. Ibrahim Pasha was the grand vizier of Sultan Ahmet the Conqueror, whose politically energetic sultana Roxelana eventually engineered the death of Ibrahim Pasha. The museum contains beautifully curated examples of courtly calligraphy, carpets, ceramics, and other artifacts.
Jim really wanted to visit the museum of calligraphy, but it was closed indefinitely. In the Beyazit Square, we met a retired agronomist who is a friend of the city cats. He knows them individually and brings them kibble (kedi mamasi), water, milk, and gentamicin eyedrops. They come running when they spot him.
At the Sirkeci train station we buy our tickets for the next destination - Izmir. We will catch the early ferry from Yenikapi to Bandirma, then a connecting train to Izmir. It arrives late afternoon, so that we can find a pension near the station.
In the afternoon, Jim went for a haircut and shave, while I returned to the Archeological museum. I lingered over the Alexander Sarcophagus. At one point, a bunch of schoolgirls came up excitely and started taking pictures of me with camera phones and asking me if I spoke Turkish and what my name was. Is this what it's like to be a celebrity? So strange.
I'm picking up some Turkish. It's interesting for me because it's a completely different language family from any of the other languages I've come across, so there's no shared etymology. It reminds me most of Japanese, but not very much. The verbs are out of control - over 36 different verb endings!
One useful phrase that isn't in the books:
When asked "are you married", answer "evlendik, mutluk" (We are married and happy).
The linguist-psychologist-salesmen of Sultanahmet are amazing. They can sell a carpet or entice you into their restaurant in 20 languages. With a glance they can accurately determine the nationality of the mark and issue the appropriate greeting, be it hello, guten tag, hola amigo, konichi wa, or ni hao ma. When the neophyte tourist establishes eye contact, the next move is "where are you from", and when an answer is given, the hook is set.
The morning was spent at the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, housed in the Ibrahim Pasha Palace. The palace is arranged around a tranquil courtyard with mature trees. Ibrahim Pasha was the grand vizier of Sultan Ahmet the Conqueror, whose politically energetic sultana Roxelana eventually engineered the death of Ibrahim Pasha. The museum contains beautifully curated examples of courtly calligraphy, carpets, ceramics, and other artifacts.
Jim really wanted to visit the museum of calligraphy, but it was closed indefinitely. In the Beyazit Square, we met a retired agronomist who is a friend of the city cats. He knows them individually and brings them kibble (kedi mamasi), water, milk, and gentamicin eyedrops. They come running when they spot him.
At the Sirkeci train station we buy our tickets for the next destination - Izmir. We will catch the early ferry from Yenikapi to Bandirma, then a connecting train to Izmir. It arrives late afternoon, so that we can find a pension near the station.
In the afternoon, Jim went for a haircut and shave, while I returned to the Archeological museum. I lingered over the Alexander Sarcophagus. At one point, a bunch of schoolgirls came up excitely and started taking pictures of me with camera phones and asking me if I spoke Turkish and what my name was. Is this what it's like to be a celebrity? So strange.
I'm picking up some Turkish. It's interesting for me because it's a completely different language family from any of the other languages I've come across, so there's no shared etymology. It reminds me most of Japanese, but not very much. The verbs are out of control - over 36 different verb endings!
One useful phrase that isn't in the books:
When asked "are you married", answer "evlendik, mutluk" (We are married and happy).
The linguist-psychologist-salesmen of Sultanahmet are amazing. They can sell a carpet or entice you into their restaurant in 20 languages. With a glance they can accurately determine the nationality of the mark and issue the appropriate greeting, be it hello, guten tag, hola amigo, konichi wa, or ni hao ma. When the neophyte tourist establishes eye contact, the next move is "where are you from", and when an answer is given, the hook is set.
Day 8: The Prince's Islands
Tuesday, May 20
The Prince's Islands (Adalar) is to Istanbul as the San Juan Islands are to Seattle - the place where urbanites escape for the weekends. We board a morning ferry with a gaggle of teenagers and visit two islands - Hinaliada and Burgazada. They are described by the guidebook as the "Armenian" and the "Greek" islands respectively, but we could not discern the subtle indicators and failed to die of culture shock.
The Prince's Islands (Adalar) is to Istanbul as the San Juan Islands are to Seattle - the place where urbanites escape for the weekends. We board a morning ferry with a gaggle of teenagers and visit two islands - Hinaliada and Burgazada. They are described by the guidebook as the "Armenian" and the "Greek" islands respectively, but we could not discern the subtle indicators and failed to die of culture shock.
Day 7: Independence Day
Today is Monday, 19 May, the Turkish Independence (Istiklal) day. It's a day of national celebration. We celebrated by holding a "Do Nothing Day." First we went to the docks at Eminonu and boarded the first ferry we saw. It took us to Uskudar, where we set foot in Asia for the first time. A few idle hours were whiled away at a dockside cafe. Then it was back to Europe, and up to the rooftop terrace for beer and backgammon (tavla). The rooftop terrace of the Alp Guesthouse is my favorite place for sunrise and sunset.
Day 6: Topkapi, Beyoglu
Our friends Emily and Yasser arrived, and we gave them our tour of Istanbul, including the Topkapi, the Harem, and the Cicek Pasaji in Beyoglu. The Harem is opulent, but I was sad to think of all the women held captive in the gilded cage.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Day 5: Yedikule, Kumkapi, Akbilmania 2008!
I am very pleased with myself for having learned to harness the power of the Akbil. The Akbil is a rechargeable electronic button that can be used on Istanbul trams, trains, ferries, and buses. It is the calling card of the savvy traveler. When I showed it to the innkeeper this morning to ask a question, he asked in astonishment, "Where did you get that?!" Pan to smug grin on Teresa's face.
The Akbil transported us this morning to the Seven Towers (Yedikule), at the Marmara Sea terminus of the Theodosian land walls that extend across the peninsula. This is so far my favorite daytrip, as it includes antiquity, clambering, and not one single other soul.
Tech note: my Palm PDA is running out of juice, but the hotel management has kindly allowed me to use their lobby computer. Much more wordy now, aren't I?
The Akbil transported us this morning to the Seven Towers (Yedikule), at the Marmara Sea terminus of the Theodosian land walls that extend across the peninsula. This is so far my favorite daytrip, as it includes antiquity, clambering, and not one single other soul.
Tech note: my Palm PDA is running out of juice, but the hotel management has kindly allowed me to use their lobby computer. Much more wordy now, aren't I?
Day 4: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Beyoglu
The morning was spent at the Blue Mosque (Sultanahmedi Camii) and the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofia). These were swamped with tour bus "bucket listers."
The local currency is the New Turkish Lira (Yeni Turk Lira, or YTL), which Jim promptly christened the "Yertle".
In the afternoon, we branched out of the Disneyesque Sultanahmet and went across the Golden Horn to Beyoglu, the site of foreign embassies and Istanbul yuppies. For the first time, we see women out on the streets.
The local currency is the New Turkish Lira (Yeni Turk Lira, or YTL), which Jim promptly christened the "Yertle".
In the afternoon, we branched out of the Disneyesque Sultanahmet and went across the Golden Horn to Beyoglu, the site of foreign embassies and Istanbul yuppies. For the first time, we see women out on the streets.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Day 3: Topkapi, Cisterns
Day 3
We got up at 5am and went for a walk along the seawall, through Topkapi palace grounds, by the Ayasofia and Blue Mosque, and back to the hotel. . The morning hours are tranquil, with birdsong, a gentle breeze, and the bass rumble of diesel engines from the Golden Horn.
After a leisurely breakfast, we headed off to the Basilica Cisterns (Yerebatan Sarnici). These were built in the Byzantine era to store water which wouldn't be poisoned by enemy soldiers. The underground cavern is mysterious and eerie. The columns were recycled from previous structures, and each one tells a story. The capitals were Corinthian, Dorian, or plain. The pylons were marble, granite, smooth, or in one cases, decorated with teardrop-shaped carvings. The bases were elaborate or plain.
The next stop was Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi), built to be an Ottoman seat of power. It would take days to see the entire place. Next to it is the Archaeological Museum, which would take weeks to take in fully. My favorites were the Hittite lions, the Alexander sarcophagus, and the inscription tablets. (Now that I know Lisa might be using this blog as history and geography jumping off points for homeschooling, suddenly there's more of both!)
By early afternoon the heat and crowds have overtaken me, and it's back to the hotel for a shower and a nap.
We got up at 5am and went for a walk along the seawall, through Topkapi palace grounds, by the Ayasofia and Blue Mosque, and back to the hotel. . The morning hours are tranquil, with birdsong, a gentle breeze, and the bass rumble of diesel engines from the Golden Horn.
After a leisurely breakfast, we headed off to the Basilica Cisterns (Yerebatan Sarnici). These were built in the Byzantine era to store water which wouldn't be poisoned by enemy soldiers. The underground cavern is mysterious and eerie. The columns were recycled from previous structures, and each one tells a story. The capitals were Corinthian, Dorian, or plain. The pylons were marble, granite, smooth, or in one cases, decorated with teardrop-shaped carvings. The bases were elaborate or plain.
The next stop was Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi), built to be an Ottoman seat of power. It would take days to see the entire place. Next to it is the Archaeological Museum, which would take weeks to take in fully. My favorites were the Hittite lions, the Alexander sarcophagus, and the inscription tablets. (Now that I know Lisa might be using this blog as history and geography jumping off points for homeschooling, suddenly there's more of both!)
By early afternoon the heat and crowds have overtaken me, and it's back to the hotel for a shower and a nap.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Day 1-2: getting there
About the blog name - it takes some brainwracking these days to come up with a unique handle. Jimandteresa is already taken, as is luther2008. I finally came up with Lutheroglu because the suffix oglu inTurkish means 'son of'.
We are finally in Istanbul after two flight delays and a resultant missed connection. We are staying at the Alp Guesthouse in Sultanahmet. All the Turkish phrases I've been studying lies fallow since almost everybody here speaks English.
Random quote - "Ah, your sister-in-law is from Hannover. Yes, that's a nice city. Not very important, but nice." - Peter, a businessman from Germany
"Lufthansa serves two snacks on this flight. Not very bad, I think." - ibid.
.
Tech note - I'm connecting on a Palm Tungsten T5 to the hotel wireless network.
We are finally in Istanbul after two flight delays and a resultant missed connection. We are staying at the Alp Guesthouse in Sultanahmet. All the Turkish phrases I've been studying lies fallow since almost everybody here speaks English.
Random quote - "Ah, your sister-in-law is from Hannover. Yes, that's a nice city. Not very important, but nice." - Peter, a businessman from Germany
"Lufthansa serves two snacks on this flight. Not very bad, I think." - ibid.
.
Tech note - I'm connecting on a Palm Tungsten T5 to the hotel wireless network.
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