Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Day 15: Mytilene
Castle
Museum
Jim's first good beer! Craft, a microbrew.
Teresa's knees see the light of day!
Museum
Jim's first good beer! Craft, a microbrew.
Teresa's knees see the light of day!
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Day 14: Acropolis of Pergamum; ferry to Lesvos
The acropolis at Pergamum looks like something generated from the Improbability Machine (or whatever) from the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. It teeters on top of a precipice, the amphitheater nestled into the bowl of the hillside, the temple of Trajan projecting into the air on massive foundation walls. As Asterix might say, those Roman engineers are crazy!
We took the taxi to the top, and walked back down. Halfway down the hill is the Middle City, where presumably hoi polloi lived. We stumble across "Building Z", which shelters three spectacular floor mosaics in amazing condition. We followed the blue dots back into town, had breakfast, and set off for our journey to Greece.
The municipal bus takes us to Yeni Garaj, the shiny new bus station outside of town, and we board a motocoach to Ayvalik, or "Quince Orchard", a seaside town known for its olive-oil. Then it's off by ferry to Mytilene on the island of Lesbos. A 90 minute cruise just at sunset takes us into the "amphitheatrically-shaped" harbor. We walked around with our backpacks looking for a "Rent Room", then a guy on a scooter spots us and takes us to one. Arion rent-rooms has murals from Greek mythology, and we are in the "Prixos and Ellie" room.
We took the taxi to the top, and walked back down. Halfway down the hill is the Middle City, where presumably hoi polloi lived. We stumble across "Building Z", which shelters three spectacular floor mosaics in amazing condition. We followed the blue dots back into town, had breakfast, and set off for our journey to Greece.
The municipal bus takes us to Yeni Garaj, the shiny new bus station outside of town, and we board a motocoach to Ayvalik, or "Quince Orchard", a seaside town known for its olive-oil. Then it's off by ferry to Mytilene on the island of Lesbos. A 90 minute cruise just at sunset takes us into the "amphitheatrically-shaped" harbor. We walked around with our backpacks looking for a "Rent Room", then a guy on a scooter spots us and takes us to one. Arion rent-rooms has murals from Greek mythology, and we are in the "Prixos and Ellie" room.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Day 13: the Battle of Bergama
Pazar 25 Mayıs 2008
Jim is laid low by gastrointestinal distress today. It being Sunday, all the eczanes (drugstores) are closed except one. I find it and get the appropriate drug for Jim. It might also have helped that we visited the Asclepion this morning. This is the site of an ancient medical complex where Galen, the 'father of medicine' practised in his day.
With Jim flat on his back, I read about the Greek (Ionian and Aeolian) settlement of Mysia, Lydia, and Caria, and the role of Asia Minor in the history of the Roman Empire, especially in the Civil Wars. Julius Caesar, Octavian, Lucullus, Pompey, Marc Antony all came through on tour.
We did not make it to the Acropolis and the site of the temple of Zeus today, so it will have to be tomorrow morning. The good stuff is all in the Berlin Museum, but we will get a sense of the setting.
The Gobi Pension ıs popular wıth Canadians for some reason.
Off to Ayvalık or Dikili tomorrow and from there a ferry to Mytılene (Lesvos). Between the uncertainty of Greek-Turkish relations and the vagaries of free enterprise, it is hard to pin down the sailing schedule of the ferries.
Jim is laid low by gastrointestinal distress today. It being Sunday, all the eczanes (drugstores) are closed except one. I find it and get the appropriate drug for Jim. It might also have helped that we visited the Asclepion this morning. This is the site of an ancient medical complex where Galen, the 'father of medicine' practised in his day.
With Jim flat on his back, I read about the Greek (Ionian and Aeolian) settlement of Mysia, Lydia, and Caria, and the role of Asia Minor in the history of the Roman Empire, especially in the Civil Wars. Julius Caesar, Octavian, Lucullus, Pompey, Marc Antony all came through on tour.
We did not make it to the Acropolis and the site of the temple of Zeus today, so it will have to be tomorrow morning. The good stuff is all in the Berlin Museum, but we will get a sense of the setting.
The Gobi Pension ıs popular wıth Canadians for some reason.
Off to Ayvalık or Dikili tomorrow and from there a ferry to Mytılene (Lesvos). Between the uncertainty of Greek-Turkish relations and the vagaries of free enterprise, it is hard to pin down the sailing schedule of the ferries.
Saturday, May 24, 2008
Day 12: Pergamum!
Cumartesi 13 Mayıs
The bus system in Turkey is admirably efficient. There are many competing bus lines, and no published bus schedules. The bus lines connect many cities point-to-point and the trips are frequent and inexpensive. It's a free-for-all-enterprise that would make the editors of "The Economist" very proud indeed.
We travel by bus to Bergama, modern Pergamum. Pergamum, like Ephesus, was a Roman provincial capital. It was also caught up in the Persian wars. All the places that were just words on the page for me while reading Thucydides' Peloponnesian Wars are coming alive.
We spend the afternoon in the cool shelter of the Archeological museum, and save the Asclepion and Acropolis for tomorrow morning. We are stayin ga tthe Gobi Pension (http://www.gobipension.com), "Quite a very good family pension" in town.
The bus system in Turkey is admirably efficient. There are many competing bus lines, and no published bus schedules. The bus lines connect many cities point-to-point and the trips are frequent and inexpensive. It's a free-for-all-enterprise that would make the editors of "The Economist" very proud indeed.
We travel by bus to Bergama, modern Pergamum. Pergamum, like Ephesus, was a Roman provincial capital. It was also caught up in the Persian wars. All the places that were just words on the page for me while reading Thucydides' Peloponnesian Wars are coming alive.
We spend the afternoon in the cool shelter of the Archeological museum, and save the Asclepion and Acropolis for tomorrow morning. We are stayin ga tthe Gobi Pension (http://www.gobipension.com), "Quite a very good family pension" in town.
Day 11: Ephesus!
Cumar 23 Mayıs 2008
We take the bus down to Selçuk, and transfer by dolmuş to Efes, the site of ancient Ephesus. It is one of the best preserved classical cities today. For Jim to see this as his first classical ruin is like someone seeing the Vatican as their first church, or for that matter, the Blue Mosque as their first mosque (which was the case for Jim). It's a sprawling hillside city with two amphitheaters, the library of Celsus, several temples, and an agora.
The harbor of Ephesus, unlike Izmir, silted up with time.
We had lunch in Selçuk and played backgammon (tavla). Then it was back to Izmir. The disco was quiet tonight, possibly because it was Friday, the Islamic holy day.
We take the bus down to Selçuk, and transfer by dolmuş to Efes, the site of ancient Ephesus. It is one of the best preserved classical cities today. For Jim to see this as his first classical ruin is like someone seeing the Vatican as their first church, or for that matter, the Blue Mosque as their first mosque (which was the case for Jim). It's a sprawling hillside city with two amphitheaters, the library of Celsus, several temples, and an agora.
The harbor of Ephesus, unlike Izmir, silted up with time.
We had lunch in Selçuk and played backgammon (tavla). Then it was back to Izmir. The disco was quiet tonight, possibly because it was Friday, the Islamic holy day.
Day 10: Istanbul to Izmir by feribot-tren
Perşembe 22 Mayıs 2008
We get up with the sun and walk down to the Cankuratan train station for two hops to the Yenikapı ferry terminal. The fast ferry goes from Yenikapı to Bandırma, halfway down the Sea of Marmara. It is brand-spanking-new and the most luxurious ferry I've been on. The train from is Bandırma to Izmir is not too shabby either. It stops short of the downtown terminus due to construction, and we are transferred thither by bus.
Izmir is the ancient city of Smyrna, famous for its strategic harbor and canny merchants. Of the many classical city-states along the coast of Asia Minor, it is one the few that continues to flourish. This was because its geography allowed the river to be diverted thereby saving the harbor from silting up. Today it is home to some 3 million people, enough to support a local Ikea store. The people of Izmir appear friendly and industrious. Just before sunset, we walk along the Cordon next to the bay, where there are many people relaxing with friends, dogs, cigarettes, beers, backgammon, and combinations thereof.
Turkey is a nation of smokers! Women, men, young, old - they all light up at the slighest provocation. Smoking was banned in public indoor spaces starting 19 May 2008.
We find a dive hotel (the Yeteroğlu) near the train station (at which we arrived by shuttle bus) and hunker down. At night, the disco next door comes alive.
We get up with the sun and walk down to the Cankuratan train station for two hops to the Yenikapı ferry terminal. The fast ferry goes from Yenikapı to Bandırma, halfway down the Sea of Marmara. It is brand-spanking-new and the most luxurious ferry I've been on. The train from is Bandırma to Izmir is not too shabby either. It stops short of the downtown terminus due to construction, and we are transferred thither by bus.
Izmir is the ancient city of Smyrna, famous for its strategic harbor and canny merchants. Of the many classical city-states along the coast of Asia Minor, it is one the few that continues to flourish. This was because its geography allowed the river to be diverted thereby saving the harbor from silting up. Today it is home to some 3 million people, enough to support a local Ikea store. The people of Izmir appear friendly and industrious. Just before sunset, we walk along the Cordon next to the bay, where there are many people relaxing with friends, dogs, cigarettes, beers, backgammon, and combinations thereof.
Turkey is a nation of smokers! Women, men, young, old - they all light up at the slighest provocation. Smoking was banned in public indoor spaces starting 19 May 2008.
We find a dive hotel (the Yeteroğlu) near the train station (at which we arrived by shuttle bus) and hunker down. At night, the disco next door comes alive.
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