And here we are at last, the erstwhile stomping grounds of Greek poet Sappho and her circle of friends, and the modern playground, according to the guidebook, of the lesbian internationale. Feminism is in the air, and I soak it up gladly.
Skala Eressou is a special place, and I would gladly return. Right now, just coming out of low season, it has just the right number of visitors to be vibrant and to support all the amenities, without the crush of high season. Skala Eressou is a mellow blend of English animal lovers, German sunseekers, expatriate artists, and the friendly locals who feed and house them with patience and cheer. There is sun, sand, history, and camaraderie.
We take a day and visit the Petrified Forest Museum in Sigri, a sleepy fishing village with the ruins of a Turkish castle. We also visit the associated "Geopark" a few kilometers away (another shiny EU project). There are proto-sequioas from a few million years ago. I get to clamber, learn something, and then sit down to a hot chocolate and pastry all in the same day.
From Lesvos you can see the Turkish coast. Apart from the Turkish fortresses at strategic points, there are vestiges of the cultural interchange from decades ago. Backgammon (tabli in Turkish, tavli in Greek) is avidly played on both sides of the straits and can be found in just about any cafe. The popular Turkish dish imam bayildi (literally, "the imam fainted", it was that good) is known simply as imam here in Greece. Both Turkish and Greek coffee have the same thick sludge at the bottom.
We will stay here until June 6th, then head back to Mitilini to catch a ferry for Tinos on June 7th. We were lucky to book this passage, which is a special voyage for pilgrims.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment